When the side planks have been completed, one side of the bottom will be completed before starting on the other side of the bottom. Each plank must extend past the centerline so that it can be trimmed to the centerline later.
Once the centerline is marked on the bottom, the planks are rough trimmed to the line using a sharp chisel. Because of the way the grain of the wood intersects the centerline, it is always best to start in the middle of the canoe and work towards the ends.
The trimming process is finished up with a couple of small planes. Small spacer blocks are put between the hull and the molds to raise the hull enough so the plane clears the molds.
Friday, March 25, 2011
Sunday, March 20, 2011
Planking the Sides
When the forms are set up at the appropriate spacing to result in the desired length canoe, the sheerstrake is installed. Much care is taken to make sure this plank has a fair curve to it because this determines how all of the following planks will lay.
Planks are normally stapled to the forms, but we have added outer ribs to the forms so that they can be clamped using wedges. This adds to the aesthetics of the canoe by eliminating all of the small marks left on the finished canoe by the staple holes.
Small dowels are placed in the fragile cove edge to protect it from the bungee cord (which also clamps the planks together). Dowels are only used in the bow and stern areas where planks will be added later. Protection isn't needed in other areas because that edge will be sanded flat and will be part of the gunnels.
The planking progresses by adding planks to alternating sides. This is where the numbering on the planks is used to keep the color scheme similar on each side. This is most important when planking the bottom because both sides are seen next to each other.
On this canoe, the dark accent strips were taken from a very dark cedar board and the white strip is from a spruce/pine board.
More planks will be added where the blue tape is after the bottom has been completed. The added planks will make up the raised bow and stern section which will give it a traditional look befitting of this type of canoe.
Planks are normally stapled to the forms, but we have added outer ribs to the forms so that they can be clamped using wedges. This adds to the aesthetics of the canoe by eliminating all of the small marks left on the finished canoe by the staple holes.
Small dowels are placed in the fragile cove edge to protect it from the bungee cord (which also clamps the planks together). Dowels are only used in the bow and stern areas where planks will be added later. Protection isn't needed in other areas because that edge will be sanded flat and will be part of the gunnels.
The planking progresses by adding planks to alternating sides. This is where the numbering on the planks is used to keep the color scheme similar on each side. This is most important when planking the bottom because both sides are seen next to each other.
On this canoe, the dark accent strips were taken from a very dark cedar board and the white strip is from a spruce/pine board.
More planks will be added where the blue tape is after the bottom has been completed. The added planks will make up the raised bow and stern section which will give it a traditional look befitting of this type of canoe.
Labels:
16' Cedar Strip Canoe,
cove edge,
fair curve,
forms,
length,
planking,
sheerstrake
Saturday, March 5, 2011
The Cedar Strips
The cedar was ripped into 1/4" x 3/4" x 17' lengths. The strips were cut slightly thicker than 1/4" and then were planed down to exactly 1/4". Milling the planking to tight tolerances should pay off later in reduced sanding.
The planks were separated by color and then numbered accordingly. This will assist us in getting an even pattern from side to side and make the canoe more aesthetically pleasing.
Bead and cove edges are put on to the edges of the planks. This allows for tight seems in the curved sections of the hull.
The planks were separated by color and then numbered accordingly. This will assist us in getting an even pattern from side to side and make the canoe more aesthetically pleasing.
Saturday, February 26, 2011
The Stems
After the materials were ordered and received, the first step was to steam bend the stems. The inner stems are made up of pine. The outer stems are of African mahogany.
Once the stems were steamed and formed, the layers were epoxied together forming a very strong lamination. The planks will be glued to the inner stem and the outer stem will be attached later to protect the ends of the planks.
Once the stems were attached to the forms, they were shaped to allow a broad flat surface for the planks to be glued to.
Once the stems were steamed and formed, the layers were epoxied together forming a very strong lamination. The planks will be glued to the inner stem and the outer stem will be attached later to protect the ends of the planks.
Once the stems were attached to the forms, they were shaped to allow a broad flat surface for the planks to be glued to.
Saturday, February 12, 2011
16 Foot Cedar Strip Canoe
This project started when we received a call from Tom who said he and his wife Vicki had recently seen one of our canoes on display at the Eagle Nest Lodge on the Big Horn River in Hardin Montana. Tom said they would like to have a canoe built for use on the lake at their cottage. They wanted it to be about 16' long and have a traditional look to it.
The "Bob's Special" design was selected for the following reasons:
The "Bob's Special" design was selected for the following reasons:
- Pleasant all around recreational boat
- Very light weight
- Good carrying capacity
- Width and flat bottom
- Low ends to minimize windage
- Good for both tandem and solo paddling
- Moderate rocker and soft bilges
- Stable to fish from
- Very steady
The plans were purchased from the very reputable Bear Mountain Boats (www.bearmountainboats.com).
Tuesday, November 2, 2010
Sunday, October 17, 2010
In Summary
Hours for Restoration:
145
Supplies from Jamestown Distributors (jamestowndistributors.com):
Foam Brushes and Rollers
Epifanes Gloss Clear Varnish
Interlux Pre-Kote Primer
Interlux 4152 Brightside Yellow
Silicon Bronze Screws
Supplies from Northwood's Canoe Company (wooden-canoes.com):
Canvas Filler
Brass Screws
Brass Tacks
Diamond Head Brass Bolts - Old Town Style
#10 Standard Mildew Resistant Canvas
Other Supplies:
Stripper
Wood Bleach
Cedar
Wooden Scraper
Sand Paper
Bronze Wool
Thinner
Literature:
The Wood & Canvas Canoe by Rollin Thurlow and Jerry Stelmok http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_noss?url=search-alias%3Dstripbooks&field-keywords=Wood-Canvas-Canoe-Construction-Restoration
145
Supplies from Jamestown Distributors (jamestowndistributors.com):
Foam Brushes and Rollers
Epifanes Gloss Clear Varnish
Interlux Pre-Kote Primer
Interlux 4152 Brightside Yellow
Silicon Bronze Screws
Supplies from Northwood's Canoe Company (wooden-canoes.com):
Canvas Filler
Brass Screws
Brass Tacks
Diamond Head Brass Bolts - Old Town Style
#10 Standard Mildew Resistant Canvas
Other Supplies:
Stripper
Wood Bleach
Cedar
Wooden Scraper
Sand Paper
Bronze Wool
Thinner
Literature:
The Wood & Canvas Canoe by Rollin Thurlow and Jerry Stelmok http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_noss?url=search-alias%3Dstripbooks&field-keywords=Wood-Canvas-Canoe-Construction-Restoration
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