Attaching the Outer Stems

Once all of the planking has been completed, the plank ends are cleaned up in preparation of fitting the African mahogany outer stems.

A belt sander is used on the upper plank ends where the outer stem fits flush with the inner stem and planks. Just past the turn of the stem, to where the outer stem will end, the planks must be cut away so that the outer stem can be inset and attached to the inner stem.

The stems are fitted and then epoxied into place.

After the thickened epoxy has cured, the screws are removed and the stem is planed and sanded so that it is close to its final shape.

Planking the Bottom (The Second Side)

As the second side of the bottom is planked, attention is paid to the numbers on the planks to keep the color scheme similar to the planks on the already completed side. Earlier, we divided the planks into three groups (light, medium, dark). The differences between planks within each group is subtle and, of course, there are never two planks identical. The shades vary and the grain is always different. This is what makes each canoe unique and beautiful. It's not until we apply the first coat of epoxy/fiberglass though that we will really know what the boat will look like.

On this canoe, we installed a longitudinal plank down the center of the bottom. This added step gives it the look of a keelson, but is just for aesthetics. The new planks are then carefully fitted to it.

Once the bottom has been completed, the bow and stern sections are filled in with partial planks. These planks will allow for the curvature of the sheer at each end of the canoe, which will give it the traditional look we desire.

Planking the Bottom (The First Side)

When the side planks have been completed, one side of the bottom will be completed before starting on the other side of the bottom. Each plank must extend past the centerline so that it can be trimmed to the centerline later.

Once the centerline is marked on the bottom, the planks are rough trimmed to the line using a sharp chisel. Because of the way the grain of the wood intersects the centerline, it is always best to start in the middle of the canoe and work towards the ends.

The trimming process is finished up with a couple of small planes. Small spacer blocks are put between the hull and the molds to raise the hull enough so the plane clears the molds.

Planking the Sides

When the forms are set up at the appropriate spacing to result in the desired length canoe, the sheerstrake is installed. Much care is taken to make sure this plank has a fair curve to it because this determines how all of the following planks will lay.

Planks are normally stapled to the forms, but we have added outer ribs to the forms so that they can be clamped using wedges. This adds to the aesthetics of the canoe by eliminating all of the small marks left on the finished canoe by the staple holes.

Small dowels are placed in the fragile cove edge to protect it from the bungee cord (which also clamps the planks together). Dowels are only used in the bow and stern areas where planks will be added later. Protection isn't needed in other areas because that edge will be sanded flat and will be part of the gunnels.

The planking progresses by adding planks to alternating sides. This is where the numbering on the planks is used to keep the color scheme similar on each side. This is most important when planking the bottom because both sides are seen next to each other.

On this canoe, the dark accent strips were taken from a very dark cedar board and the white strip is from a spruce/pine board.

More planks will be added where the blue tape is after the bottom has been completed. The added planks will make up the raised bow and stern section which will give it a traditional look befitting of this type of canoe.

The Final Plank

All of the planks are on the boat although the sheerstrake has yet to be glued and trimmed to the gunwhale. Next, the outer stem will be fitted and the keel will be attached.

Row, row, row your boat...life is but a dream.

In Between the Planks

A bevel in progress.

There are a number of things that need to take place after one plank is completed and the next plank is ready to be epoxied into place.

Bevels:

The first step is to remove the 85+ screws used to clamp the previous plank while its epoxy cures. Once the screws have been removed, the edge of the plank can be trimmed flush with the stringer it is attached to. The router makes quick work of the trimming except around the stem, transom, and bulkheads. In these areas, the trimming is done with a combination of saw, file, and plane. Once the edge is trimmed, a line is drawn 3/4" from the edge of the planking marking where the edge of the next plank will lie. The space must be beveled so that it is on the same plane as the adjacent stringer so that the next plank will have a flat area to lie on. Some beveling will need to be done on the adjacent stringer for the same reasons. Besides beveling the plank edge and the stringer, the bulkheads and transom must also be beveled to accept the new plank. The final step in prepping for the next plank is cutting the gain which was covered in a prior post.

Fitting the plank:

To fit the next plank, the planking stock is clamped to the boat and lines are drawn on it using the stringers for guides. The plank is rough cut a few inches wider than the lines to provide some room for adjustments and to provide for the 3/4" that needs to be added for the 'lap' section that overlaps the adjacent plank (that we just beveled). Once the new plank has been cut out, it can be re-clamped to the boat and new, more accurate lines can be traced onto it. The plank is then removed again so that 3/4" can be added to the arc drawn for the lap edge. A batten is then used to connect the 3/4" marks and redraw the curve. The plank is then sawn about 1/8" outside this line and then a plane is used for final trimming to the line. The final step for this plank edge is to sand it with a sanding block further fairing the curve and putting a slight radius on the outer edge.

After the lap edge is ready, the plank is clamped back on the boat to continue with the fitting process. The lap edge is checked to see that it matches up with the 3/4" line that was drawn for the bevel on the adjacent plank. The fit at the gain is also checked and adjusted as needed. If all fits well, then a line is drawn 3/8" in from the lap edge which will designate the middle of the stringer below it. This will be used when laying out screw locations. If the fit looks good, a couple of screws will be put in to keep the plank from moving throughout the rest of the fitting. The middle of the lower stringer can now be transferred to the plank and marks are made about every four inches on both the top and bottom lines for screw locations. After pre-drilling all of the screw holes, the position of the scarf is marked and the plank is removed to cut the scarf. Epoxy is brushed onto the plank and the boat before applying thickened epoxy to all of the mating surfaces. After the plank has been screwed to the boat, all of the epoxy 'squeeze out' must be cleaned up immediately. Excess epoxy is scraped off and then a final cleaning is done using acetone.

That completes the fitting of one of the half planks. Attaching the other half plank entails the same steps with a few slight differences. The scarf will now be on the bottom of the plank instead of the top like the previous plank and two inches must also be added to the plank for the scarf. Each full plank takes about six hours to complete. (6 hours x 12 planks = 72 hours of planking).

Row, row, row your boat...life is but a dream.

Let the Planking Begin!

The planking is an exciting step because this is when all of the separate pieces of wood and many (many) hours of work come together to form the boat.

The planking is a little slow-going at first. After laying the two bottom most planks (called garboards), two strips were attached to them near the transom. Due to the near vertical angle of the garboards at the transom, the strips are needed to give the next planks a good landing to be attached to. The three foot strips of mahogany have a rolling bevel that tapers down until the strip is feathered into the planking.

Gains are also cut into the top edge of each plank. Gains are a three quarter inch wide by 16 inch long area that tapers evenly from the top ply to the bottom ply over that 16 inch section of the plank. Gains are what allow the adjacent planks to fit flush against each other at the stem (bow) thus eliminating the "lap" in this area. This flush area results in a finer, quieter entry into oncoming chop and is also very pleasing to the eye.

Row, row, row your boat...life is but a dream.

Taking Shape

As you can see, it’s been a while since the last post. Much progress has been made and the finished boat is getting easier to visualize…it’s going to be beautiful.

After the building jig was assembled, the legs were adjusted to make the entire assembly level. A support piece for the stem was added and then the station locations were measured and laid out on the jig. The temporary frames and bulkheads were then attached to the jig at their appropriate stations. The transom was attached to a temporary frame with the bottom edge cut at a 25 degree angle giving the transom its needed rake.

After making sure the forward bulkhead was plumb, the stem was attached to it. One of the temporary frames has additional supports added to make it rigid. The keel is attached to the rigid frame and also to the other frames, bulk heads, stem, and transom therefore making the entire assembly rigid. After planing the proper angle on the transom and making some minor adjustments, the keel was screwed and epoxied to the stem, bulk heads, and transom. A quarter knee was added where the transom and keel meet for additional strength. The keel was removed just before being permanently attached to have the edges routered and all surfaces sanded.

The sheer clamps (in-whales) were attached next. Compound angles were cut at the stem along with cut outs in the transom. Next came the stringers which also have compound angles at the stem and cut outs in the bulk heads and transom. The top two stringers on each side were steamed in order for them to accept the twist that is needed to mate them to the stem and the transom. A hand saw, coping saw, and chisels were used to cut the openings in the bulk heads and transom. The stringers and sheer clamps were all removed after the initial fitting to be sanded before being permanently attached. The stringers all extend slightly past the stem so they can be planed to the exact angle needed to match the stem bevel. Much time was spent making sure all of the stringers have fair curves which will be reflected in the planking.

Next up:

• Outer stem will be laminated using the stem as a form.
• Keel, bulkheads, and transom will be beveled.
• Outer skin of the transom will be attached.
  
  

Row, row, row your boat...life is but a dream.